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Paint sealant

It's still a widespread misconception that hot wax at a car wash serves as paint sealant and that water and dirt no longer stick as a result. In fact, hot wax leaves the car shining after the wash, and the water runs off faster, although the effect fizzles out after a few days. Admittedly with cold wax one can achieve long lasting results of several weeks, but applying it by hand is tiring.

The alternative: a paint sealant from Profi. A professional sealant closes the pores in the paint. They are responsible for the fact that without the appropriate treatment, dirt or water spots are visible on the surface. As in many areas of everyday life, nanotechnology is used with a paint sealant. The pearling and dripping off of the water which is achieved is also called the lotus effect. The nano layer protects the paint not only from muck, but also from UV light, bird droppings and stone chips. Cleaning a car after such paint sealing is child's play. Paint sealant is not an affordable thing - you must invest several hundred euros in it. This is due to the cost.

Several rounds of polishing follow the rigorous cleaning. The paint is cleaned and then degreased. Only then comes the sealant, which lasts for about two years. That is significantly longer than with hot and cold wax, but also simply more expensive. Kits for do-it-yourself-paint-sealing are also available commercially. They cost about a tenth of the price with Profi, and - when correctly applied - last about a year. Admittedly, this method is only something for skilful drivers who have a lot of patience. The type of sealant you should consider is thus a question of time and money.

Protect and maintain your paint like this:

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Applying rust converter

Rust is something nobody wants to see on their car. With time, though, this can hardly be avoided. One small stone chip in the paint is already enough, and the damaged point starts to rust. Generally it doesn't stay in a small area, and so rust points should be eliminated immediately. The solution: rust converter. It converts iron oxide (rust) into iron phosphate, for example, which is significantly more stable and can be painted. Rust converter is available commercially and applying rust converter takes place as follows:

  1. Cover the area around the affected point with masking tape, so that the paint will not get damaged.
  2. Treat the rust with 80 or 150 sandpaper. Sand afterwards with 240 sand paper.
  3. Apply rust converter and allow it to act according to the instructions (often 48 hours).
  4. Patch possible arising holes with glass fibre repair mats and repair resin.
  5. Then polish the treated location with very fine sandpaper.
  6. Remove masking tape.
  7. Apply new, wide masking tape.
  8. Apply three to four layers of spray paint criss-cross and after every layer let it dry for a few minutes.
  9. After a week treat the area broadly with polish grinding paste.
  10. Seal with several layers of clear lacquer.

With application of this rust converter and some skill you can repair rusty patches on the car. Of course you need time for this, but rust can eat through centimetre thick iron, causing massive damage, if it is not eliminated.

Grinding paste for cars

If the paint is weathered or has mild scratches, perhaps from the brushes of a car wash, grinding paste lends itself to the task. It's used as a polish and removes the uppermost layer of paint, as it contains abrasive substances. Used correctly, the paint is touched up, and minor damage is eliminated. If you go overboard, on the other hand, it will make everything even worse. The polishing can be done by hand or with a sander. Single and double component substances are available commercially , where, on account of the sandpaper the latter is only for experienced users. Polishing cloths or discs are generally included in special sets. When purchasing you should also make sure that there is an accompanying manual. After treatment with grinding paste, the paint is roughened. That makes it vulnerable, which is why it absolutely has to be sealed afterwards. If you don't dare to treat the scratched paint with grinding paste, leave it to a professional.

Applying clear lacquer

A car's paint consists of two layers: the base coat and the clear lacquer. The latter protects the colour and gives it its sheen. Accordingly, it is an absolutely essential part of the repainting of a vehicle. Applying clear lacquer is similar to the application of the base paint. This must be very dry (it mostly only takes a few minutes), which can be recognised by the dull finish. You should always work in a dust-free environment, since even the smallest particles are visible in the paint. In order to stop foreign substances from settling, the base coat and clear lacquer should be applied directly one after the other. The clear lacquer is placed in a spray gun, and applied first to sides and corners. Afterwards come two coats of wet and overlapping paint, between which the lacquer should air dry for a few minutes. Generally it dries overnight, although only weeks later does it finally harden. With some skill and the right tools, application of clear lacquer is not so difficult.

Lappenpoliutr

Applying touch-up stick

It happens quickly: a stone flung up by the vehicle in front hits the bonnet and leaves behind a damaged section in the paint. This is generally not particularly large, but irritating. For such cases or for repairing scratched paint layers, the car manufacturers offer touch-up sticks in the relevant car colour. Often, however, this doesn't involve a stick at all, but rather a bottle and a brush. Sometimes the set consists of a base coat and a clear lacquer. With such a touch-up stick you can remove minor damage well. However, one needs to pay attention to more than just the right colour. Often the brush belonging to the touch-up stick is too wide and not suitable for delicate repair. Rather invest some money in a very thin brush, which is available from a model-construction or art shop, for example. Toothpicks are also an option if the damaged area is very small.

Before applying the paint the affected area must be cleaned and degreased, perhaps with a cotton bud and cleaning solvent. If rust is visible, it must be sanded and rust converter must be used. Don't forget the clear lacquer, and let everything dry overnight. Then the area should be roughened with 2500 or 3000 sandpaper and polished afterwards. Finished!

Car maintenance polish

A car's paint is exposed to the elements, and it must also take in a few things, if one just thinks of bird droppings. It's true that in the last decades a great deal has been done with respect to the quality and durability of the paint, but it should still be protected. At the factory there is a clear lacquer on top of the base coat, but even this can become dull. In order to bring back the sheen, there is a car maintenance polish. With this the product is applied with circular movements, and it then lasts a few weeks. This procedure is sensible before winter and summer as protection against road salt or insect secretions. In a car polish one mostly finds abrasive materials, which simultaneously remove small scratches in the paint, in which layers of paint are removed. Thus one using it one should definitely pay attention to the instructions for use, in order to avoid causing any damage to the paint. After polishing, a wax (preferably Brazilian Carnauba wax) comes onto the paint. There are also combined products with micro particles and synthetic polish bodies, which combine polish and wax. Ultimately it comes down to the condition of the paint, and thus one should seek guidance when purchasing the car maintenance polish.

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If the right remedy is found, it has to do with the work. So how does one polish properly? First, dirt, dust and other foreign bodies should be removed from the paint. Most importantly sand and residue from insects or bird droppings can unintentionally act as sandpaper on the polish. A thorough car wash should achieve the desired result in most cases. Afterwards the car is thoroughly dried, preferably with car leather or with a microfibre cloth. For the polishing itself one requires time, but it's worth it. Important note: not in direct sunlight! That can lead to spots. A place in the shade is the best choice. Windows, headlights and plastic parts are covered ahead of time. Additionally, you should use a lint and dust-free cloth when applying the polish liquid. This will become milky-white on the paint and can then be worked in with circular movements. The alternative to a cloth is a polishing machine, and when this is used the effect of the polishing is improved. There is a distinction between:

  • An eccentric polishing machine, which is suitable for newcomers. It takes a little bit longer.
  • A faster eccentric polishing machine with forced rotation
  • A professional rotation polishing machine with superior performance and heat generation

Polishing machines stand out for the fact that they require less energy input (a bit more with the rotation polishing machine). A little bit of pressure suffices, and the polish is applied evenly. Finishing is also possible - it removes all residue. If you want to save yourself this manual or mechanical trouble, or don't have time for polishing, leave it to the expert. From around 100 euros the treating of the paint can be taken care of.

Conclusion

The fact that a car's paint loses its polish over the course of time can hardly be avoided. With the right car maintenance, however, the ageing process can be slowed down notably. Whether for repairing a stone chip, nanosealing through Profi or a polish, the expense is worthwhile, because better-looking paint maintains the value of the car too. Lack des Autos
Prices include VAT and delivery within mainland UK (excl. special areas).